Ask ten different people and you’ll get ten different answers. Many people have a favorite that they will happily tell you all about, others have only used one specific type and have never experimented with anything else, while others have tried them all and ultimately decided on one go-to collar/leash combo.

Which brings you back to the question: which one is best?

Ask ten different trainers and you might get ten different answers. Here you’ll most likely get some strong opinions on what’s the preferred choice and what’s is considered barbaric to each trainer. And many trainers will be happy to debate the choices of dog walking tools for endless hours on end.

Which again brings you back to the question: which one is best?

As far as I’m concerned there is not right or wrong tool. There is only the right one for you. Much like everything else in dog training, there is no right or wrong – there is only what’s right for you, with your dog. And what works for me with my dog may just plain suck for you and your dog. What works for one person with one dog, may not be the right choice for someone else with that same dog.

Are you with me here? There is no one right tool for everyone and every dog in every situation. And the only way to find what’s right for you and your dog is a little old school trial and error. The proof of this is the closet full of collars, leashes and harness I have at home. Stuff I tried but, for whatever reason, just didn’t work for me.

You need to try some stuff out and make an educated decision on what works best for you. To get you started here’s my take on ten of the more common leash walking tools out there (in on particular order).

1. Flat Collar and Leash

A flat collar is probably the most common type of collar used, is typically made of nylon or leather, and has either a buckle or plastic closure. The leash is made of similar material and attached to the leash by a metal clasp. For me, no matter what kind of training collar and leash people use initially, they should work towards eventually being able to walk their dogs with a flat leash and collar.

2. Choke Chain

A metal choke collar constricts around a dog’s neck when he pulls, causing pressure on his windpipe. This can cause the dog some discomfort and limit his ability to breathe. I never use choke collars and think they are more of an old-school, outdated tool. With all the other choices out there, I see no real need to ever use this type of collar.

3. Martingale Collar

This type of collar is designed for breeds which have heads that are the same widths as their necks (such as Greyhounds and Whippets) making it easy for these breeds to slip out of a flat collar. It’s designed so that it tightens around the dog’s neck when pulled. Unlike the choke chain, which applies pressure on a single point of the neck, the Martingale Collar tightens evenly around the dog’s neck, making it a much gentler tool. I use them for very fearful or anxious dogs that have a reputation of backing out of their collars. Martingale Collars should be the only type of collars used with Greyhounds and Whippets.

4. Head Collar

Head collars go over a dog’s nose and attach in the front, as opposed to most other collars, which attach in the back. This front-attaching feature makes the dog self-correct, because every time the dog pulls he is turned backward. These types of collars take all the power away from even the most aggressively pulling dogs, enabling the handler to walk them with two fingers. This is the purely positive trainer’s number one choice. Although it is very effective, it is probably my least favorite choice of collar, and I almost never recommend it. Although some trainers claim they are the most humane choice of collar, I doubt that the dogs of the world would agree. Dogs obviously hate them because they spend most of the time trying to get out of them and if they are used regularly, the dog’s fur will rub off their nose where the head collar fits. Also, I don’t like to use them on dogs that have been vilified (such as Pit Bulls, Dobermans, Rottweilers, Mastiffs, and others) because uninformed people think it’s a muzzle, giving them a bad impression of what is probably a great dog.

5. Prong Collar

A prong collar comprises of a series of metal links with prongs which sit against a dog’s neck. When the leash is pulled, the collar tightens and the prongs dig into the dog. Purely positive trainers are very vocal of their distaste for prong collars, saying they are inhumane. Personally, I don’t completely agree with that opinion in every case. Surely, using a prong collar on a Papillion, for instance, is certainly overkill, but on a “bully” breed it might be the best choice to help the dog owner gain control of the dog. Big, muscular dogs will barely feel the prongs, but it might be just enough to take the edge off, enabling someone who is not strong enough to handle the dog under normal circumstances to gain control. I’ve never recommend prongs but if someone is already using one and is confident using it, I won’t mind as long as they are using it correctly.

6. Electric Collar

The three most popular kinds of electric collars are shock, citronella and vibration collars. Shock collars deliver an electric shock to the dog (usually by a remote control) when the dog makes a mistake. Citronella collars spray a burst of the distasteful chemical citronella in the dog’s face when does something unwanted (this is most commonly used to deter barking). Vibrating collars will, as you would expect, vibrate to correct the dog. I don’t think that electric collars are very good for the dog and can, in fact, cause additional anxiety issues. They are typically used by people who are looking for a quick fix and who don’t want to spend the time required to properly train their dog. The big problem with these is that their use often creates some negative side effects, such as fear and anxiety. I personally don’t like any treatments that comes with adverse side effects.

7. Rear-attaching Harness

These harnesses go around the dog’s midsection with the leash attaching on the back of the dog. For dogs that pull, this is the worst choice, because the chest is the strongest part of the dog and using this type of collar actually empowers the dog to pull. However, for small dogs they are perfectly acceptable, and the rear-attaching harness should always be used for breeds with genetic breathing difficulties, such as Pugs and Bulldogs.

8. Front-attaching Harness

Front-attaching harnesses are built somewhat the same as the other harnesses, but instead of hooking the leash to the back of the dog, you attach it to the front of the dog in the center of his chest. I like this harness very much. It is similar to the head harness in that it is self-correcting – as the dog pulls forward his body is turned back in the opposite direction. Labs seem to do very well when using this harness. This kind of harness is not a good choice, however, for dogs who like to bite on leashes, since the leash can hang right in their line of view when at rest. Additionally, dogs that hesitate and are reluctant to walk will not do well with this type of harness.

9. Slip Lead

The slip lead is probably my favorite tool to use for pulling dogs, because it gives the handler very good control of the dog (which is why they are the only leash/collar used in dog shows). A slip lead is a leash and collar all-in-one. The leash is looped on one end, and this end goes around the dog’s head and is pulled snug and held in place by a stopper. This allows us to keep the lead up high close to the ears, offering the handler greater control: if you control the head, you control the dog. The farther the collar is toward the chest (the strongest part of the dog) the more control the dog possesses. Corrections made using a slip lead should be made straight up and not at an angle. This is fine if you’re tall enough to do so, but for very large dogs or for short people, the slip lead may not be very effective.

10. Retractable Leash

Hands-down the single worst thing made to walk a dog is the retractable leash. Walking is a team sport, and during the walk you need to be able to communicate with your dog. But how the hell do you do that if the dog is ten to sixteen feet in front of you? Almost everyone I encounter who uses a retractable leash has a relationship problem with their dog. The thing to remember is that the farther the dog is from you, the less influence you have on the dog- in fact, you’re really not even on the same walk. It’s like asking your wife/husband/boyfriend/girlfriend to go for a walk, but walking ten feet ahead of them and attempting to communicate.

My top two favorites are the slip lead and the front attaching harness. I find those two are a nice balance of giving the handler a high amount of control and well tolerated by the dog. However, as I mentioned above, there is not right or wrong. If you hire me I’ll steer you away from chokes, prongs, e-collars and retractables and have you give the slip or the front harness a go.

Always remember that the tool is not a substitution for training. The goal should be to train your dog to walk nicely on a leash so that you can walk him with anything.

Let me know in the comments what your favorite collar, leash and/or harness is and why.

There’s plenty of information out there but it all conflicts with one another and seems to change by the day. Although I am far from an expert on the topic I though I would give you my take on them since my dog, Hayley is due for her rabies shot this month and it’s fresh on my mind.

When I adopted Hayley ten years ago not only was I not a dog trainer, but I was a pretty inexperience dog person in general. And I did what most people who first get a dog do: make it up as you go along, hopefully learning from the many mistakes you make.

The first mistake I made was listening to whatever my vet said without much thought or research. This is something that I think most of us do. We trust that since they are wearing the white coat they must have all the right answers. However, veterinarians are exactly the same as every other profession – there are good ones and bad ones, some are well educated and some know the bare minimum to get their diploma.

Most of the time we just trust our vet is super knowledgeable about everything and that he always knows what’s best for us – even though he barely knows us. The problem is that many vets don’t keep up with current research and are making a nice profit with vaccines, which can make them a bit biased toward them.

The truth is that vaccines stay in the bloodstream for much longer than we originally believed, so vaccinating every year is totally not necessary. We’re discovering now that many vaccines are still fully functional and present in the dog’s blood for many years after the initial vaccine.

Over vaccinated your dog can be life threatening and I know of a few people who’s dog died after receiving a vaccine.

One of my big issues is that many vaccines are actually 4 or 5 vaccines in a single shot, which can be a lot for the body to handle at one time. Also, it’s quite common to give the same dosage to all dogs. Come on now, how can a 2 lb. Yorkie get the same dose as a Mastiff tipping the scales at over 150 lbs.???

After seeing Hayley react badly to a Lyme vaccine (her leg swelled up and she could barely walk) I opted out of every vaccine from that day on. The only vaccine I have done is rabies because it is required by law. And starting right now, I’ve opted out of that one as well.

Hayley is now 11 years old and after seeing her react badly to many vaccines and medications I don’t want to take any chances with her health. So asked my vet if it was possible to forgo the rabies shot. Luckily, I have a great vet, who not only keeps up with current research but also understands my personal beliefs and point of view and is considerate with opinions (thanks Dr. Ashmore – you rock!). He agreed with my concerns and wrote me a note for my town, excusing Hayley from the state regulated 4 year requirements.

I believe in giving puppies their full round of vaccines but after that I’m not a fan of giving any vaccines. I bet most of them are still in the dog’s blood stream well into adulthood. And now we don’t have to wonder because you can get a titer (which is a test to see how much of the vaccines is still in the bloodstream) before you vaccinate again to make sure you’re not overdosing your dog.

Now, if you board your dog or use doggie daycare you’re screwed and will have to get regular vaccines, and I believe that the benefits of using those facilities might outweigh the risks of the vaccines. That’s a decision you will have to make on your own.

The key thing I want you to take from this is that you don’ have to blindly listen to those little reminders you get at the bottom of every vet bill that say “it’s time for another vaccine.” Think first, do your research, weigh the benefits with the dangers and make an educated decision.

Our dogs deserve the extra thought and it’s up to us to be our dog’s biggest advocate.

To say this event is big, doesn’t really do it. To say it’s humongous is getting closer but still can’t accurately describe it. No matter how descriptive I can get on this page it will never completely paint you a picture of the magnitude of the Best Friends Super Adoption atmosphere.

A couple of trainers from this area volunteered to help out for the first time this year. I spoke with both beforehand describing the event, telling them what to expect and what we would be doing there. Although both of these veteran trainers had worked with other organizations at adoption events in the past, they were wide-eyed with mouths agape when they entered the County Center in White Plains, NY on April 28th.

Rows and rows of barking dogs, eagerly awaited the possibilities of finding a home. The sound inside the building is almost defining and the energy that all these dogs created was electric.

The Best Friends staff and volunteers were nothing short of amazing. A well-oiled machine of organization and dedication. Each and every person working the event had a laser-like focus in their eyes, and an overwhelming desire and drive to achieve the collective goal: to get as many dogs as possible adopted to good homes in 48 hours.

Just because we were all trying to send home as many animals as possible, didn’t mean we were going to cut corners or loosen the qualifications for adoption. I, myself talked a number of people out of getting the dog they were interested in because it was just not the right fit.

This kind of event is not about the numbers, it’s about making a match that will last a lifetime.

By Sunday afternoon, around 300 dogs and cats had found a new home. That number still staggers my mind.

By the end of the event our bodies were aching from standing for 10 hours straight each day and our voices were shot from talking all day, but our spirits were soaring. Every time I take part in a Best Friends event I am awestruck by the unyielding dedication of the people involved.

I remember walking into the small office Saturday evening, to return my headset (we used headsets to make it possible to communicate during the chaos of the event) and check out for the day, when I heard a tired voice come through the earpiece, asking if it everyone was clear to go home. Someone replied that there was one final adoption that might go through.

“Is it a pit bull?” someone asked.

“Yes,” came the reply.

The response came instantly with a bit more energy in the voice than before, “We’ll wait as long as it takes.”

Sunday night, after collapsing in bed, my whole body aching, I could only think one thing: I can’t wait to do it again.

Here’s a short video I made of my experience at this years Super Adoption. Let me know how you like it.

Click here to view the embedded video.

]]> http://ferndogtraining.com/adoption-on-steroids/feed/ 4 http://ferndogtraining.com/talking-dogs-episode-5/ http://ferndogtraining.com/talking-dogs-episode-5/#comments Thu, 26 Apr 2012 13:31:28 +0000 Fern http://ferndogtraining.com/?p=665 Here’s the latest episode of my online video show with Jeff Coltenback. In this edition we talk about different natural supplements you can use to help behavioral issues. In the viewer question segment we address barking and pet loss.

I also play (what I think) is a very funny joke on Jeff toward the end of the video. Check it out and let me know if it cracked you up too.

If you want to check out some of the products we discuss head over to the Talking Dogs web page and the links are in the show notes.

The breeder or the rescue where you adopted the dog tells you one thing, your vet tells you something different, the guy at the local pet store tells you something else, then you’re Uncle Sam tells you something totally different, while your neighbor is adamant on against everything everyone has told you, but eagerly shares his wisdom with you . . . and on and on it goes.

It easy to see why there getting a dog for the first time can be confusing and outright dizzying. There are so many different ways to train, take care of and live with dogs  – and every different piece of info sounds so correct, yet so contrary to everything else.

Dog people are always very passionate about their dogs and take great joy in helping one of the tribe. However, their knowledge is very subjective, their situation may be completely different and it’s possible that they may actually have absolutely not idea what they are talking about.

So who do you listen to?

I recommend you kindly listen to anyone who is cares enough to offer their advice on a topic. Take in what they have to say but once you’ve been hit with all this info you from everyone, you should weight it differently depending on the source.

If your vet gives you behavior advice you can hear him out but maybe you’ll take my advice a bit more seriously because that’s what I’m trained to do. If your dog is sick or injured, you can get my input but your vet is the one to go to for that. Now your crazy Uncle Sam may or may not have any clue about what he’s preaching.

You also have to keep in mind that that everyone is different, every dog is different and every situation is very different. And what works for me and my dog might not work for you with your dog, in your world. It’s a very individual thing.

Another thing to keep in mind is that what works for you with your dog may not be effective for someone else with your dog. When I first got my dog ten years ago, my wife and I used two very different collars to teach leash walking because what worked for me did nothing for her.

A lot of dog training is just trial and error (I have a closet full of leashes, collars and harnesses to attest to this) and sometimes you just have to try some things out in order to figure out what is the best thing for you and your dog. If I tell you to do something and you do the exact opposite, that’s what you do! Do what works for you.

The bottom line here is if you’ve got questions you should seek out some advice – doing nothing and just hoping everything turns out alright is always a bad choice. But always look at the source and decide if they are legitimate and knowledgeable on the topic, and then experiment with it out in your world.

Now tell me, what’s the worst advice someone has given you regarding your dog?

Do me a favor, if you like it share it on Facebook or any other social media outlet (check out the nifty icons below). And your comments are also always welcome.

So you try to show him how cool and nice you are by slowly moving toward him with your hands outstretched in friendship, while making kissy noises.

Although I know your heart is in the right place, by doing something like this you’re actually making the dog less trustful and more afraid. The rally cry of people who do this is often, “But dogs love me.”

I know you desperately want to help this poor pooch but the big mistake you’re making is that it’s not about you, it’s about the dog. The “But Dogs Love Me” people are usually very offended when instead of running into their arms with open paws, the dog runs as far away as he can get and gets even more reclusive.

When working with a fearful dog you have to remember that nothing the dog does has anything to do with you, so don’t take it personally. His shy behavior was shaped long before you got there and has been probably been going on for some time. So, it’s going to take some time and understanding to help him through it.

So what we need to do is make this less about you and more about the dog. So instead of advancing and trying to “win him over” on your terms, let the dog dictate the encounter by doing things on his terms. And that means doing something that is the opposite of what you want to do.

What you want to do is scoop this little scared guy up in your arms and show him all the love that’s waiting for him. But what you need to do is completely ignore him and let him get comfortable with you.

You’ll be amazed at how quickly some shy dogs will come around if you just do things the right way.

Here’s my list of things to do to help a shy dog overcome his fears:

1. Don’t make any direct eye contact with him. Look at him out of the corner of your eyes or just glance and quickly look away.

2. Never directly face the dog. Always angle your body so that you’re on an angle to him.

3. Be patient. As I mentioned, if he’s been in this unstable state of mind for a while, it’s going to take some time to change it. Always move at the dogs pace – which will seem painfully slow for you, but remember this is about him, not you.

4. Use some super yummy meat-based treats to try to encourage him to move out of his comfort zone. Something with a lot of scent to it. For fearful dogs I use grilled chicken, steak or hot dogs. Every so often throw the dog a piece of food, remembering not to look at him or face him. If he takes it, awesome. Next time throw it a little closer to you, and little by little have him have to move closer to you to get the food.

As long has the dog is taking the food you can proceed. If he is reluctant to come forward it means he’s not ready to get close just yet. Give him time and just work at the distance that he’s is cool with. The process could take minutes, hours, days, weeks or months depending upon the severity of the anxiety.

What if the dog is not food motivated?

I just had a case like this last weekend. This little fur ball wasn’t interested in food what-so-ever, so I had to find a different reward – a walk. He loved walking, so we went for a walk. And on the walk I stuck to the plan: no eye contact, not moving into his space – just walked with him. By the end of our walk he was much more comfortable with me and seemed to be less fixated on my movements.

The moral of this post is to think about what you’re doing. If you don’t take things personally, understand that this is all about the dog, respect his issues and do things on his terms and at his pace, you’ll be able to help him get over his fears and you’ll be hugging him in no time.

Have you had some experiences with shy dogs? Let me know in the comments below.

The big thing you have to remember is that they are going to do some really dopey things. Stuff you are totally unprepared for and that you would never in a million years expect them to do. No matter how good you think they are, they will push their boundaries and, at times, totally ignore everything you say.

Yup, that’s kids for you.

Wait, you didn’t think I was talking about dogs, did you? Come one, dogs are very predictable and listen a hell of a lot better than most kids do. I should know – I’m desperately trying to survive the daily chaos of 2 four-year-olds.

If you just do a few things, you can make sure that everyone (human and canine) will enjoy their time together and not come out of the experience traumatized.

Supervise Everything

This should be a given but I’m amazed at how many people let young children interact with dogs with little or no adult supervision. Come on now parents, what’s wrong with you?

By young, I’m talking about children under the age of about 8 (or older kids that are immature or don’t take direction well). I don’t care how good your kids or your dog is, stuff happens. In the fun of playing a high speed game of tag, tails can be stepped on and in the crazy reactivity that ensues when the UPS truck pulls up, little bodies can be trampled. Because of all this I don’t like young kids being left alone with any dog – no matter how good they are.

Train and Educate

Another obvious one here. How well trained is your dog?

If your pooch is an out of control Labrador goofball who can’t sit for longer than a few seconds before he snarfs the treat out of your hand, why on Earth would you think that he would be a gentleman when your nephew comes over and starts rampaging around your living room? Teaching your dog the basics – especially impulse control and only rewarding a calm state of mind – is a must to set the foundation of controllable behavior around kids (or anywhere else for that matter). Being able to put your dog in a sit or down when kids are running a-muck, can make all the difference.

And how about teaching your kids exactly what to and what not to do around dogs. If you don’t tell the better they are going to do something really dumb like petting a dog on the top of his head.

Douh! – you do that too, don’t you??? Okay, hang on I’ll get to that in a second.

I’ve been teaching my girls since birth the dos and don’ts of being around dogs so they respect a dog’s space and only touch them in appropriate places. My Pit Bull, Hayley has also been so educated and the result is a very safe and happy household for all species.

Ground Rules

The following rules apply mostly for dogs that are relatively unfamiliar or have not had a great deal of exposure to kids. Dogs that are very well socialized with kids might not require so many rules. However, when in doubt stick to these.

For Kids:

1. Respect a dog’s personal space and let the dog initiate the interaction – the dog might not be cool with you coming at him. Let him come to you.
2. Don’t take the dog’s stuff – food, toys, sticks, etc.
3. Don’t pet the dog on top of the head or hug them – although this is the human default, dog’s really don’t like it. Always pet dogs under the chin or on the side of the head (this goes for you too).
4. Don’t hold food at the dog’s level and be surprised when he samples your lunch – that’s just baiting him.
5. Always ask the dog’s owner before approaching and/or petting an unfamiliar dog.
6. If a dog stiffens his body, turns away or looks uncomfortable back off – I don’t care how much they want to pet him, if he looks like he wants out, let him go.

For Dogs:

1. Exercise before you allow them to interact with kids – a tired dog is a good dog.
2. Only allow dogs to be near the kids when they are in a calm state of mind – dogs make bad decisions in an excited or aroused state of mind.
3. If kids are not totally comfortable with dogs, keep your dog on a leash so that they don’t invade the child’s personal space – we don’t want Jr. petrified of dogs because an overly waggy pooch slobbered all over him.
4. Socialize puppies with kids as soon as possible – making sure the interactions are positive and pleasant.

As long as you put in some time training and keep an eye on both the kids and the dogs everyone should have a fun time together. Since children account for about 70% of dog bites, it’s pretty important to make sure we’re being extra careful to keep everyone safe and sound.

If you train your dog and teach your kids you’ll be setting everyone up to have nothing but a good time together.

Parents who want to bring a dog into the family dynamic are understandably concerned about the safety and well-being of their kids. The problem with all these parents is that they ask me, the supposed expert, for advice but are rarely satisfied with my answer – and always refuse to believe me.

What they want me to say is that the little designer dog they just dropped a few grand for is the ideal canine to let their kids be kids around. And by that I mean, let their kids do all kinds of inappropriate things to this poor little puppy. Everything from stepping on the dog’s tail, to holding him upside down like a baby, to all out tackling him.

These parents chose their little fur ball because he looked so cute and they couldn’t possible imagine such a cute face ever sinking his teeth into one of the family. They can’t imagine it but quite often that’s exactly what happens and I’ve got news for you, it’s never the dog’s fault.

Most dogs that end up getting nasty with children have every right to want their personal space back because it’s the kids that are pushing all the dog’s buttons. It’s not the kids fault either – they just want to play and love the pup. The problem is that most dogs are not cut out for the rough handling and crazy energy of a hyper little boy or girl.

So, we get back to the big question: what is the best breed of dog for children?

I’m always very eager and happy to share the answer to this parental conundrum, even though I know that few are prepared for the answer, which is. . . . the Pit Bull.

Pause for gasp . . .

Oh yeah, I said it – the P-word.

Pit Bulls are hands down the best dog with children, bar none. I know your head is probably shaking back and forth in disbelief but I assure you I tell no lie. Pit Bulls top the chart of being the pooch to let your kids around. The reason is obvious – Pits were bred to take abuse.

Take a look at any Pit Bull and you’ll notice that they are built like furry tanks. Have you ever tried to kick a tank? If so, did you dent it? I doubt it. There’s very little a child can do to a Pit Bull that will really cause it any harm. Combine their rugged exterior with their gentle temperament and you get “the nanny dog,” which is what Pit Bulls were called back before they were seen as fighting dogs.

They got this less than butch name because people used to (and some like myself still do) leave them to watch over their children. How’s that for a great resume?

I’ve watched my two girls climb on top of my dog, hit her with toys and yank every part of her body and Hayley has taken it like with a tolerance I surely don’t have. Try doing that with a Dachshund or a Chihuahua (statistically the biggest biters of all dog breeds).

She’s amazing with them and I often find her following my girls around and often keeping watch nearby when they are sleeping.

Now I’m not saying that every Pit Bull is a perfect match with kids or that every little pooch is going to bite junior. Not at all. Every dog is as good as you train him. I’m just saying that out of the box Pit Bulls are better physically and psychologically set up to do well with children.

So get over the stereotype and open your mind to what all the experts in the canine industry (which, for your information, does not include the media) have been saying for years. Pit Bulls are the best dog with kids.

Ok, rant over. Next week I’ll go over how to set things up so that your kids and your dog do well together, whatever breed of dog you have. See you then.

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